Diy guitar workbench

diy guitar workbench

A Luthier's Workbench Pt. 1 Developing practical personal working areas is a common issue to the complete beginner and seasoned builder alike. Slotting nuts. Aug 18, - Explore Jim's board "Luthier workbench" on Pinterest. Garage Organization, Guitar Diy, Wooden Pallets, Playing Guitar, Music. DIY And Crafts · Woodworking · Woodworking Shop. Benches, Vises and Clamps for Guitar Building - a cabinet makers workbench Build Your Own. SHELL CITRIX

Music Guitar. Guitar Neck. Cigar Box Guitar. Guitar Chords. Ukulele Design. Go Bar. Homemade Musical Instruments. Workshop Ideas. Guitar Store. Backyard Studio. Old Tools. Sergei de Jonge - Canada. Liquor Cabinet. Home Decor. Carport Garage. Shopinabox — Ramblings. Drafting Desk. First World. Outdoor Harp Guitar - the world's first travel harp guitar! Guitar Riffs. Workshop Organization. Wooden Diy. Custom Electric Guitars. Office Branding. Carpentry Projects. Luthier Pavel Bashmakov. Luthier Pavel Bashmakov on Behance.

Woodworking Organization. Woodworking Workbench. Timber Frame Garage. Diy Garage. Garage Storage. Tool Storage. Shop Buildings. Woodworking Hand Tools. Woodworking Techniques. Woodworking Projects Diy. Woodworking Plans. Diy Projects. Youtube Woodworking. Woodworking Basics. Workbench Organization. Brands Kalmbach Media. Create some DIY tool storage systems and increase your efficiency. Workshop Storage. Cheap Office Decor. Cheap Home Decor.

Remodeling Mobile Homes. Home Remodeling. Cheap Mobile Homes. All Stories. Cool Guitar. Guitar Tutorial. Local Music. Church Architecture. Beautiful Guitars. Per Hallgren - Sweden. I am the author of handtoolmanual. How To Plan. Sylvain Balestrieri Workshop. Hammered Dulcimer. Pen Holders. Renovation and restoration of classical guitars and other stringed instruments-Shaun Newman Guitars.

Restoring and repairing stringed instruments, guitars. Jewelers Workbench. Workshop Studio. A poorly-organised workbench that encourages disorder and sloppiness is a magnet for Bad Times. Traditional bruisers. At the other end of the scale are the workbenches that populate many "fine" woodworkers' workshops, schools and old-school shops. My first explorations in workbench design started in this very same territory. Despite a traditional woodworker's bench being very useful for the non-guitar work I was doing at the time, it reinforced how well-suited it is at doing the tasks it originally evolved for; hand tool working the faces, ends and edges of large rectangular things!

Applying luthiery tasks to this workbench just highlighted its lack of finesse, unless I really wanted a flat rectangular instrument. Most of the time it only provided me with a useful flat area to work on Big bruisers like my several-hundred kilo Roubo excel at providing an unmoving structure which won't rock, slide or react to having a hundred-kilo gorilla driving wide jointing planes down workpieces secured to it. We rarely need to exert that much force on anything we do making or repairing guitars!

Even planing the sides of neck-through blanks or facing lumber by hand. More than likely when I set up a new working space, the Roubo will become a base for securely holding larger jigs such as the router thicknesser bed or even the Myka neck jig. Fundamentally, its uses are just too coarse for guitar work and it's the wrong height for eating dinner.

Typical French "Roubo"-style workbench for working the face, edges and ends of boards Source: 3D Warehouse. Workbench styles evolve from the pressures of the work expected of them. A Black Forest cuckoo clock maker's bench is radically-different from that of wooden gate maker. Shoehorning a bench whose DNA is fundamentally different to the task at hand means that everything becomes a series of compromises and workarounds to get even the simplest job done efficiently and correctly.

A hammer isn't really the best tool for driving a screw. A more practical size, but not the workholding we need. The front vise might seem useful at first glance, however it will likely spend more time as an obstacle than being in use, and ultimately is designed for holding non-guitar shaped things. T he wide tail vise in combination with the dual bench dog rows is more useful for routing operations on flat pieces, however simpler workholding arrangements exist and the ergonomics may not be ideal.

As a turnkey bench, these would get you in the ballpark however I would have a difficult time rationalising the hacking and deconstructing necessary to my thousand-plus workbench to make it do what I wanted it to. How do you decide on the height of your workbench? Do you spend more time sat or stood around it? Traditional benches are surprisingly low; mostly due to their expected tasks requiring a wide and powerful stance. Physical tasks such as hand planing especially with old tall wooden planes benefit from a lower bench than relatively static standing jobs such as hand routing.

It is however about the correct height for seated work such as soldering and other fine work. Unlike many other bench aspects, raising the height is not usually too onerous, especially given how transformative 2" can be to a bench you spend any length of time hunched over. Workholding is an enormous topic which we'll partially cover in part two of this series, whilst introducing design aspects for a more usable luthier's bench. For the moment it is sufficient to say that guitars are rarely if at all comfortable being secured using the vises and clamping methods designed for handling rough semi-finished wood that is more or less of square dimensions.

We are needing to fit our delicate guitar-shaped pegs into somewhat rectangular shaped holes, however the vast majority of workbench designs - both commercial and traditional - do not entirely satisfy our needs. We need better ways of stopping our work dancing around the table. A more universal productive luthier's bench should be capable of holding necks and bodies in all states of the process firmly yet safely whilst offering free workpiece access from any angle we choose In part two, we'll look at how we can move beyond this by making our benches smarter.

Post photos of your own workbench in the comments below! We'd love to hear exactly how everybody arrived at their own bench designs, the troubles you experience with it or the problems you solved! A Luthier's Workbench Pt. Attribution — You must give appropriate credit , provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made.

You may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way that suggests the licensor endorses you or your use. ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original. Posted January 21, You already have a photo of mine. I can also fully endorse the caption underneath it!!! I'm very interested in this topic because I have thoughts of improving the situation this year Sounds like this series worked out perfectly in terms of timing for you then!

Part 2 goes live tomorrow. It just needs proofing and minor corrections carrying out. Maybe the bench I'll be describing in part three will be right up your street, but preferably not in your garden unlike those floppy Workmates. Posted February 3, You were apparently way ahead of me. Posted February 4, I haven't even got that right now!

I mean, I have a bench but nowhere to actually use it. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead.

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Diy guitar workbench Church Architecture. Brands Kalmbach Media. Studio Organization. Maybe the bench I'll be describing in part three will be right up your street, but preferably not in your garden unlike those floppy Workmates. We'd love to hear exactly how everybody arrived at their own bench designs, the troubles you experience with it or the problems you solved!
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Diy guitar workbench Luthier Pavel Bashmakov on Behance. Create some DIY tool storage systems and increase your efficiency. Hopefully you'll be able to spot which benches are less than ideal, and which ones are truly inspired. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. How To Plan.
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diy guitar workbench

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You MUST drill the holes for the screws before you cover it, however. Measure the full length of your box, and divide it by five yes, five. Now you should have four lines down the side of your box, which is where your latches will go. Then measure your handle assembly. Find the center of the handle and install it so that the center of the handle goes over the second to last line where a third latch would go. Screw holes for it accordingly. A lot of handles will be set up like Picture 6 above: screw, washer, cap, pin, handle.

Before you install your handle, decide whether or not to cut a second longboard to reinforce that part of the case with, as per Picture 5. Then place your latches over the remaining division lines there should be three and drill holes for them, lining up the latches' centers with a piece of hefty paper we used a business card.

The reason that the handle placement is off-center is that your guitar isn't going to be an even weight in the box. Your guitar body weighs more than the neck, so an asymmetrical handle placement will balance the box as you carry it. The first time we did this, we put our handle in the center of the case, which you can do, but let me tell you, the fifth time you almost fall down the stairs because of the uneven weight, you'll be ready to build a new case and start everything over.

The last parts of your hardware are your lid supports, and these generally come with instructions. If not, check out Pictures 8 and 9 above. Now you have a lid and a body of your box. We started with the lid, and measured six inches of clearance on the covering material on all sides. So basically you'll have a rectangle of fabric thats twelve inches longer and twelve inches wider than the dimensions of your lid.

Now, wrap your rectangle around the handle of a broom, so that it is unroll-able. Then spray glue the back of the lid thoroughly. Quickly, while the spray glue is still wet, roll out the fabric right side up over the sticky surface. Just smooth them out and make sure they're glued down well. Then, to do the short edges, spray glue, and fold it like you would wrap a Christmas present. Then, fold down the overlap and staple it down into the inner corner edge of the lid.

Do about the same do the base of your box, but make the fabric clearance around 8 inches instead of six, as your lid and base should be different sizes. Use lots and loads of staples and voila! A covered box. Since the outside now looks amazing, we need to make the inside safe for the guitar.

As you can see in the first photo above, there's a lot of air space inside the box, and what we want is to fill that space with as little as possible so that we are not adding a lot of weight but we are adding velvet-y softness.

To keep weight to a minimum, we are going to use corrugated cardboard for the form of the liner with a little bit of foam , and we are going to cover it all with the fuzzy felt we purchased when we also bought the fabric for the exterior of the case. In the second photo above, you can see the basic design for the interior of the case -- because once we cover it in black felt, it's hard to see details in the photos!

We are using a very traditional design for a generic case which provides support of the neck of the guitar, space for two mini cases which can be used to store picks, cables, or tuners, and ample space for the headstock and body. If you are building this case for one specific guitar, you could easily modify this design which custom-cut foam to lay your guitar down into for a very snug fit.

On the body side of the case, we also added a foam bumper that as a hole in it to receive the strap pin in the bottom of the body. After cutting the head and body spaces, we wrapped them in felt using a similar technique to how we wrapped the exterior -- we sprayed on heavy-duty adhesive and then wrapped and smoothed the cut felt onto the sticky building material.

When those were dry enough to handle, we sprayed the bottoms of the forms with glue and inserted them into the case. The next part is either very easy or very hard, depending on how patient you are. Then we glued them together, covered them with felt, and inserted them so that they matched the neck spaces cut into the head and body spacers in the previous step. This gives the neck a semi-firm support which is also soft enough to allow for some cushion to keep your precious instruments safe and sound.

The last part of building the interior is to build the storage boxes. In the first photo above you can see the measured cuts we made to assemble the box we constructed in the second photo. You will notice that the total linear measurement is 15". We used simple duct tape to secure the joints, making sure that the lid joint was flexible while the corner joints were not. Notice that we are building this without sides as we will use the sides formed by the head and body space to close off this box.

We're doing this to make the felt wrapping of the interior easier that trying to form fit a solid 3D box. Then using the 15" length as a rule, we cut 25" x 10" of felt to wrap the box in. On the lid end of the felt, notice how we cut away some of the overlap.

This is because we wanted to avoid having a flap on the outside of the top of the lid. You will see how this works as you scroll through the photos of the glue-up of the felt. Photos show how the box was wrapped with the felt. Keep in ming that when we glued the lid, we did not put glue on the side of the box under the lid so the flex would not bind the lid and prevent it from closing.

You're going to have to do this twice once for each case , and it works best if the cases are identical in measurements so that they will force the neck foam support to center-up in the case. Photos above show what the interior of the case looks like when the two smaller wrapped boxes are installed.

So the very last step is to find all those holes you drilled before you covered the box with material. Re-attach all the hinges, hardware, and corner brackets. And woo-hoo! You have a complete guitar case! Now place your fancy or not so fancy guitar inside, fasten all your latches, and off you go! Now you look like a professional with less than half the regular cost. Give yourself some more cookies and clink milk glasses with your building buddy or your cat.

Question 1 year ago on Step 2. I've been having a hard time finding an affordable case for my Ibanez 8 string guitar and this ible might just be perfect! Question 2 years ago. Answer 2 years ago. Question 3 years ago on Step Instead of wrapping with vinyl or apholstery, could you just spray with Plasticoat or Rhino Liner?

Answer 3 years ago. Opinion: you can do whatever makes you happy! Other Opinion: Plasticoat and RhinoLiner are harder to apply thank th fabric and will not look as good. My ten year old Coffin Case will need to be replaced soon.

You I'ble might just be my next project. Great job! I get to see the results of this DIY every week when you come to rehearse with your guitar By TiggsOnInstructables Follow. More by the author:. About: Guitar mania, tigger mania, love of tiggers, guitars, ukuleles, instructables, cosplay and MORE!

More About TiggsOnInstructables ». My dimensions, therefore, look like this: 41" x 15" x 4" When you build a box, you need six pieces. Your long sides will be: 41" x 4" Your short sides will be: 15" x 4" And of course your top and bottom will be: 41" x 15" After you've figured all of that out, you need to decide how much fabric you'll need. The first part is pretty easy to understand. And now for the fun part! Now, this is the gluing and stapling part.

Lots of glue, lots of staples. Now you have a weird looking box-skeleton! You're nearly there! Now, let all your joints dry. Go make cookies and eat them. You deserve it. If you have corner brackets, place them and drill their holes too.

Okay, now we have to measure for the latches. Hopefully you've gotten your latches already. This is what I believe to be the fun part. You can go ahead and put on your corner brackets, if you like. Also if you liked this, do me a favor and vote! Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It!

Answer Upvote. Reply Upvote. DOleskevich Question 2 years ago. Could you include rivets in the build as well, and how would you go about it? We'll drill inn one length on each side of the walls, and screw straight through both of them. Predrilling holes is a must! Don't want to break any of that wood.

We're doing it on both sides to balance the pressure, both at the top and at the bottom. We'll now insert all the guides that came with the units. A simple screw will hold them steadily in place, and these will hold the drawers. We want this workbench to be as convenient as possible, so we're adding some power outlets to one side. We'll measure some distance from the top, add a guideline and then fasten the backside og the power outled along that line. We can then push on the rest of the outlet, and drill it in place.

Some wire clamps will hold the wire in place, and at the end there we can add a second power outlet. Here we're connecting it to a power cord that has a power plug at the end, which will power the workbench when needed. Always check local regulations when dealing with mains power, be careful, and if you're in doubt: don't do it, and consult with a qualified electrician.

An alternative is to run 12 volt DC power to be able to power lights and lighter chargers, etc. To keep things tidy when it's not in use, we'll also add this coat hanger to the side that can hold the cord. It just makes it a little bit easier to manage.

We don't want it to be unaligned with the storage units, so we'll first figure out how much margin there should be on each of the sides. Using a straight edge, we'll draw the lines of where the countertop will meet the storage units.

Right around the lines we drew, we'll add some LED-strips. For the corners we can use some handy angled LED-joints - which makes it a lot easier. Hopefully the adhesive that's on the LED-strip will hold on its own, if not we'll have to come back with some hot glue. Shouldn't be an issue. Again, predrilling is always a good idea, so we'll do that first. We're drilling directly through the top of the storage units, which is where we will insert screws to mount the countertop.

The LED-strips helps aligning it, and we can then add some weight to the top to keep everything steady while drilling in the screws. We're adding about screws for each storage unit, so quite many, actually! Finally we can add the drawers.

This is the best part! The great thing about this is that you don't need to have drawers in all the units. I left one partly empty, and that's where I store my drill press. Also, as this workbench is going to be in a workshop, the lids are incredibly handy, as I'll be able to avoid dust collection at the bottom of the drawers.

Finished, the LED-lights will definitely look tacky with a color-changing program, but one color at the time works just fine. The lights also illuminates what's inside the drawers when you open them, so they are also quite functional.

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A Cheap, Simple and Portable Workbench for Luthiers

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